with Urethane Castings
Castings should be thoroughly washed before
painting. Mold release is used to prolong the life
of the molds and will cause paint to adhere poorly.
Use warm soapy water or a mild sink cleanser. Rinse
in warm water and air dry.
Do not apply heat to dry PARTS or use VERY hot water
TO WASH. Urethane will soften and distort if heat is
Castings may need to have some flash, parting lines
or sprue marks removed. A hobby knife and sandpaper
works well. The urethane cuts and sands easily so
use care. I prefer to wet sand. Use wet/dry
sandpaper (320 through 600 grit) and keep the paper
wet while sanding. Using water lessens the chance of
scratching the castings and slows the cutting action
of the sandpaper.
Even though every effort is made to provide a
perfect casting some filling of imperfections may be
required. Iíll wash the castings and spray a light
coat of automotive primer on before inspecting and
cleanup. The gray primer makes any imperfection
highly visible and also provides a base that body
putty can adhere to. After filling, the putty can be
sanded down using wet/dry sandpaper as described
After the castings are finished to your liking they
can be installed using slow setting cyano-acrylate
adhesive or epoxy.
Remember that cyano-acrylate type adhesives usually
bond urethane resins INSTANTLY! Slow curing types
will only give you a slight increase in time to
position your parts.
Domes and Stacks on the Bachmann Mogul
The Bachmann domes and stack are
glued to the boiler but the adhesive joint is not
strong. In most cases gently rocking the parts from
side to side while applying pressure will cause the
adhesive to break loose. Gentle pressure is all that
is required. If too much force is applied it is
possible that some of the boiler material will chip
out around the dome opening.
The domes and stacks are designed to fit into the
molded holes in the boiler. Some minor cleanup of
remaining adhesive or adjustment to the size of the
holes may be required for a good fit.
Parts can be glued to the boiler with slow setting
cyano-acrylate adhesive or epoxy. Be sure parts are
square to the boiler and in line with each other.
Any slight gaps between part and boiler can be
filled with body putty. I prefer Squadron Green but
any similar product will work.
Assembling Stack "Kits"
Some stacks are supplied with multiple parts and
will require assembly. A
stack "kit" consists of a base, cap and screen.
It is suggested that the parts for the stack be
cleaned up as outlined above and the inside of the
base and cap painted before assembly. Painting the
inside a flat black will prevent seeing the inside
of the stack through the screen.
The screen should also be painted before assembly so
the back can be painted. Flat black is recommended
and additional weathering such as rust can be added
to the outside after final assembly and painting.
Be careful in applying paint as excessive buildup
can mask the screen detail.
The screen is cemented in from the underside of the
cap. A slight step is provided to locate it. In some
cases the screen will need to be formed into a
slight dome shape to fit. The screen can be cemented
in with a few small drops of thin cyano-acrylate
adhesive applied from the inside after the screen is
The cap and screen assembly is then fixed to the
body using cyano-acrylate adhesive.
general the Climax stacks are assembled the same as
other stack kits described above. A clearance hole
will need to be drilled through the stack for the
Bachmann mounting screw. To remove the old stack
insert a small phillips drive screwdriver into the
stack and loosen the screw at the base.
To locate the center spot for the screw hole take a
1/8 (0.125) diameter drill and insert it from the
top side of the stack body. It will just fit into
the cored hole in the base casting. Give it a couple
of turns by hand to create a center spot. Use this
spot to center a #50 (0.070 dia.) drill in a pin
vise and drill through the stack.